The Tiber Valley, Gubbio, Assisi

What to see in Umbria? Follow us on this itinerary that starts in Città di Castello and goes all the way to Assisi, touching on some of the region’s most beautiful tourist spots. The itinerary covers more than 100 kilometers, but of course it can also be traveled in stages.-

Located on the border with Tuscany and not far from Le Marche, Città di Castello lies among the hills on the left bank of the Tiber. Less well-known than other tourist destinations, it nevertheless offers pleasant surprises to its visitors. It is famous for being the birthplace of Alberto Burri, considered one of the greatest artists of the 20th century. His masterpieces can be admired: in the 15th-century Palazzo Albizzini, where 130 works dating from 1948 to 1989 are on display; and in the Ex Seccatoi del Tabacco complex, which houses his latest creations, created between 1974 and 1993. Other things to see include: the Municipal Art Gallery, second in Umbria only to the National Gallery in Perugia; the Church of San Francesco, which houses a copy of the ‘Wedding of the Virgin’, painted here by Raphael in 1504; and the Cathedral, dedicated to Saints Florido and Amanzio. Leaving Città di Castello, we continue in the direction of Umbertide, a small town surrounded by greenery. Here, the Church of Santa Maria della Reggia, with its curious octagonal plan; and the Church of Santa Croce, with its altar decorated by a large panel by Luca Signorelli, are worth a visit.

Just a few more kilometres and you can already see Mount Ingino, on whose slope lies Gubbio, one of the most beautiful medieval towns in Europe, so tied to its past that it hosts the Medieval Festival every year. The beating heart of Gubbio is the scenic Piazza Grande, from which one can enjoy a splendid panorama. Three beautiful palaces overlook the square, the most famous of which is the 14th-century Palazzo dei Consoli, one of the most majestic public buildings in Italy. Since 1909, its rooms have housed the collections of the Museo Civico, which illustrates local history and culture from prehistory to the 20th century. From here, the elegant Via dei Consoli leads to Palazzo del Bargello, a perfect example of Gubbio civil construction in the Gothic style. Further up, the Cathedral of Saints Marian and James, rich in valuable paintings, and the Ducal Palace, the only example of Renaissance architecture in the city, stand opposite each other. On the summit of Mount Ingino is the Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo, the site of the famous Festa dei Ceri, a thousand-year-old tradition that takes place every year on 15 May.

The itinerary continues to medieval Gualdo Tadino, the city of artistic ceramics and springs. Among its attractions are: the Duomo, embellished by a beautiful rose window with a double row of columns; the Church of San Francesco, which houses numerous 15th-century frescoes; and the Rocca Flea, one of the most significant examples of medieval military architecture in Umbria, which houses the Museo Civico. A few kilometres from Gualdo Tadino is Nocera Umbra, best known for the therapeutic properties of its mineral waters. Among the most valuable buildings: the Cathedral, with its chapel decorated with paintings by Giulio Cesare Angeli; and the Church of San Filippo, in neo-Gothic style, with its façade adorned by a large rose window. The next stop is Foligno, which lies at the foot of the Umbria-Marches Apennines. The fulcrum of social and civic life is Piazza della Repubblica, overlooked by the most interesting buildings from a tourist point of view: the Palazzo Comunale, characterised by its solemn neoclassical colonnade; the Palazzo Trinci, one of the most beautiful examples of a late-Gothic Italian residence, where the City Museum is located; and the Duomo, a splendid example of a neoclassical-Baroque building.

The itinerary continues to Spello, the most flowered village in Umbria. Listed among ‘I Borghi Più Belli d’Italia’ (Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages), it experienced a period of intense artistic activity in which it was enriched with Renaissance masterpieces by Pinturicchio, Perugino and Nicolò di Liberatore known as the Pupil. Remains from Roman times, in the ancient entrance gates, welcome the visitor. The main street links the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, whose interior is a veritable art gallery, with the Romanesque Church of Sant’Andrea and the ancient Palazzo Comunale. Also worth a visit: the Civic and Diocesan Art Gallery, located in the rooms of the Palazzo dei Canonici; and the Villa dei Mosaici, one of the most extraordinary archaeological discoveries in the region.

Finally, the last stop on the itinerary is Assisi, the city where the spirit of St Francis seems to hover in every corner. Lying on the slopes of Mount Subasio, it boasts a rich historical and artistic heritage linked to Christianity, but not only. The city’s most important monument is the Basilica of St Francis. It consists of two overlapping churches: the lower one gives access to the crypt where the saint’s mortal remains are kept and is decorated with works by the great masters of the Florentine and Sienese schools of the 14th century; the upper one is famous for the marvellous frescoes by Giotto and his School. From the basilica, Via San Francesco leads up to Piazza del Comune, where the Palazzo dei Priori, the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo with the Civic Tower and the so-called Temple of Minerva stand. Not far away are: the Gothic Basilica of Santa Chiara, with its two-coloured stone bands; and the Cathedral of San Rufino, dedicated to the patron saint of Assisi, with its splendid Romanesque façade. From the cathedral, a pleasant walk leads to the Rocca Maggiore, from where you can admire one of the most evocative views in Umbria.