Itinerary for discovering Lucca

A splendid and lively city of art, Lucca is a small jewel with an enormous historical-monumental wealth. Once known as the ‘city of 100 churches’, it can be pleasantly visited on foot, walking through its narrow streets with their medieval atmosphere, where religious buildings, towers and 16th-17th century palaces compete in beauty.

Follow us on this extraordinary and exciting itinerary to discover the city and its main places of interest.

The itinerary could only begin with a visit to the Cathedral of Lucca, dedicated to San Martino, located in the square of the same name. According to tradition, it was built in the 6th century at the behest of San Frediano, bishop of Lucca, although its current appearance is the result of a long period of reconstruction work that began at the end of the 12th century and ended in the 17th century with the completion of the Sanctuary Chapel. Inside, in addition to the polychrome marble floors and paintings by Tintoretto and Ghirlandaio, there are two masterpieces: the Tomb of Ilaria del Carretto, wife of Paolo Guinigi, executed in 1406 by Jacopo della Quercia; and the ancient wooden crucifix of the Holy Face, which, according to legend, was sculpted by Nicodemus. On the right side of the façade rises the bell tower of San Martino, from which one can enjoy a beautiful panorama of Lucca. The nearby Cathedral Museum houses the church treasure.

In the immediate vicinity of the cathedral is the 16th-century Palazzo Micheletti, designed by Bartolomeo Ammannati; and the Monumental and Archaeological Complex of SS. Giovanni and Reparata, which holds some of the most important testimonies of Lucca’s history. At this point, the itinerary continues towards Piazza San Giusto, where the Church of San Giusto is located, which preserves one of the most beautiful portals from Guidetto’s workshop, and taking Via Cenami we pass by Palazzo Cenami, built around 1530 by Nicolao Civitali. After admiring the beautiful façade of the nearby former Church of San Cristoforo, turn back towards Piazza Napoleone, overlooked by the Ducal Palace, a veritable palace that has been the political and administrative centre of the city for eight centuries. Among its artistic wonders is the sumptuous Sala delle Guardie, with frescoes dedicated to Emperor Trajan by Luigi Ademollo. The building also houses the Museo del Risorgimento, which recounts, through numerous relics, the origins of united Italy.

Just a few steps from Piazza Napoleone is Piazza San Michele, where you can admire: the Renaissance Palazzo Pretorio, built in pietra serena with a large loggia decorated with statues; and the Romanesque Church of San Michele in Foro, which houses several works including a Madonna and Child in glazed terracotta by Luca della Robbia and a beautiful panel painting depicting Four Saints by Filippino Lippi. The itinerary continues to Via del Poggio, where Giacomo Puccini’s birthplace is located, transformed into a museum in 1979. It houses original furnishings, precious objects that belonged to the musician, autograph scores of early compositions, letters, paintings, photographs, sketches and memorabilia documenting the composer’s work. Once past the Church of Saints Paolino and Donato, we enter Via Galli Tassi, overlooked by Palazzo Mansi, a late 16th-century building resulting from the union of pre-existing tower houses. It houses the National Picture Gallery, with paintings by Italian and foreign schools from the 16th to the 18th century.

The itinerary continues towards Piazza San Salvatore, taking first Via Santa Giustina and then Via Cesare Battisti, where seventeenth- and eighteenth-century palaces alternate. At the end of the street stands the Basilica di San Frediano, one of the city’s oldest religious buildings. According to tradition, it was San Frediano himself who founded the church in the 6th century, although the present basilica, in Romanesque style, was begun in the 12th century. The church contains numerous works of art, including the large mosaic on the façade dating back to the 13th century, the statues by Jacopo della Quercia in the Trenta chapel and the frescoes by Amico Aspertini in the chapel of St. Augustine. After visiting the basilica, one reaches the nearby Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, one of the city’s symbolic squares, built on the remains of the ancient Roman amphitheatre, of which the tiers of seats that bordered the arena still emerge. Follow Via Fillungo to reach Porta dei Borghi, a gate in the ancient medieval walls.

Not far away is the Villa Guinigi National Museum, housed in one of the oldest and most prestigious buildings in the city, built from 1413 onwards at the behest of the lord of Lucca Paolo Guinigi. The works on display are related to the history of Lucca, from its origins to the 18th century. These include masterpieces such as the Pietà by Matteo Civitali and the Madonna and Child with Saints by Amico Aspertini. From the museum, we first take Via Santa Chiara and then Via Santa Croce, along which we can admire the imposing Palazzo Bernardini, built between 1517 and 1523 by Nicolao Civitali. The itinerary ends by reaching the Guinigi houses, a complex of towers and palaces that represent the last reworking of the Romanesque Lucchese house. Between Via Sant’Andrea and Via delle Chiavi d’Oro, stands the Guinigi Tower, on top of which is a hanging garden with large, centuries-old holm oaks.