5 things to see in Capoliveri

Perched atop a gentle hill on the slopes of Monte Calamita, Capoliveri is one of the most beautiful and characteristic villages on the Island of Elba. Rich in charm and history, it preserves intact its medieval appearance with its narrow and evocative arched alleys called ‘chiassi’, overlooked by small craft shops, ice-cream parlours, restaurants, bars and wine bars. Of particular beauty is the coastline, characterised by a myriad of inlets and small bays, but there is no shortage of things to see for those who want to take a break from the sea. We have chosen five not to be missed. Let’s discover them together!

The Mines of Calamita

Before becoming a tourist paradise, the Island of Elba was one of the most important mining centres in central Italy. A few kilometres from the town of Capoliveri, on the promontory of Monte Calamita (named after magnetite), you can visit the iron mines that for centuries were the greatest source of work for the people of Elba. Although the deposits are not exhausted, production activity was suspended in 1981. But the interior still tells of the hard life of the miners. There are two routes that can be visited: the one at 6 metres above sea level, with no difference in height or difficult routes, suitable for everyone; and the one that reaches 24 metres below sea level, which involves descending 220 steps. A visit to the Old Workshop Museum completes the experience.

The Maritime Museum

On the night of 17 June 1841, the steamship Polluce, built in 1839 by the Normand shipyards in Le Havre, sank off the coast of Cape Calvo, taking with it a treasure of gold coins and jewellery of inestimable value. Traces of the precious cargo were lost until 2000 when British treasure hunters managed to recover part of it through a scam, which was fortunately seized by the Italian authorities before being auctioned on the British market. Later, in 2005, the recovery of the huge cargo was completed. The treasure is now on display in this museum together with ship’s documents, letters, personal effects, various goods, tableware, cabin furnishings and other shipboard items.

The Shrine of Our Lady of Grace

On the western slope of Capoliveri, a few steps from the beach of the same name, stands the Shrine of Our Lady of Grace. It is a 16th-century building with a scale dome and a rather squat bell tower, which housed in temporal sequence first Augustinian monks (until the mid-18th century), then Romite monks and finally French monks (during the period of the French Revolution). Inside, one can admire valuable works of art, including a small oil painting on wood in the centre of the high altar, known as the Madonna del Silenzio and depicting the Virgin and Child with Saints, painted by Marcello Venusti, a favourite pupil of Michelangelo, to a design by the illustrious master.

The Shrine of Our Lady of the Snow

Another religious building not to be missed is the Shrine of Our Lady of the Snow. It is located on a small rise behind the vast inlet of Lacona (a hamlet of Capoliveri), behind a valley surrounded by wooded hills. Erected in the 16th century on the foundations of an earlier building but remodelled several times over time, it was built by the inhabitants of Capoliveri to house the image of the Madonna della Neve, still venerated today. It presents a rather simple architectural structure characterised by a single rectangular nave. It is easily reached via a narrow, partly paved road.

The Fort Focardo

Located on a cliff, overlooking the sea, on the eastern coast of the Capoliverese promontory, Fort Focardo is a fortification created with the task of guarding and defending the coastline. It takes its name from the governor Don Ferdinando Gioachino Focardo, who had it built in the 17th century, when the area was under the empire of Charles V. Of the structure, which fell into disuse in 1800, the lighthouse, erected in 1848 to illuminate the Porto Azzurro coastline, still stands. Although the lighthouse cannot be visited inside, as it is owned by the Navy, it is still worth a visit to admire its architecture and to enjoy unique panoramic views of the town of Porto Azzurro and the stupendous scenery of Cima del Monte.

Photo gallery © Tuscan Archipelago Museum System