Itinerary between Florence, Pistoia and Certaldo

What to see in Tuscany? Here we propose a fascinating itinerary between the cities of Florence, Pistoia and Certaldo, which travels through the more classic Tuscan countryside, among hills where vineyards, wheat fields, olive groves and lively towns with their numerous factories alternate. The itinerary is rather long but can also be covered in stages, depending on the destinations one wishes to visit.

Are you ready? We start in Montecatini Terme, an elegant town that owes its popularity to its thermal waters rich in precious mineral elements. It is the ideal destination for those who need to be cured by the waters but also for those simply looking for a cheerful and sunny holiday resort. It boasts many well-preserved buildings dating back to the Art Nouveau period and is characterised by a large number of parks and green spaces where one can relax and enjoy an atmosphere rich in culture. The first stop on the itinerary is nearby Monsummano Terme, where the Risorgimento poet Giuseppe Giusti was born. While Montecatini boasts an extraordinary variety of mineral waters, Monsummano is famous for its hot caves, used for sudatory cures. Two are the best known: the Parlanti cave and the Giusti cave, composed of three intercommunicating cavities known as Paradise, Purgatory and Hell. Things to see include: the Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Fontenuova, an exemplary monument of 17th-century architecture; the Museum of the City and Territory, housed in the historic building of the Osteria dei Pellegrini; and the Museum of Contemporary and 20th-century Art, which houses paintings, graphics and sculpture by 20th- and 21st-century artists from the local area.

The itinerary then continues on the slopes of Montalbano, passing through Lamporecchio, where a beautiful altar by Giovanni della Robbia can be admired inside the Church of Santo Stefano. At San Baronto the descent begins and we reach Quarrata, a town known throughout the world for the production of upholstered furniture. Among its beauties is the Villa La Magia, a splendid Medici residence built from an ancient castle and later remodelled by Bernardo Buontalenti in Mannerist forms, surrounded by a marvellous park that houses the contemporary environmental art collection “The Spirit of the Place” with works by Fabrizio Corneli, Anne and Patrick Poirier, Nagasawa, Marco Bagnoli, Maurizio Nannucci and Daniel Buren. The next stop is Poggio a Caiano, where there is another splendid Medici villa, whose construction between about 1485 and 1520 was entrusted by Lorenzo the Magnificent to the genius of Giuliano da Sangallo, who realised a building that is among the most beautiful in the Florentine area. Inside, it features halls frescoed by Pontormo and Andrea del Sarto, while outside are the garden and park, dominated by the large 19th-century lemon house. Since 2007, it has housed the Museo della Natura Morta (Still Life Museum), which contains around 200 paintings mostly belonging to the Medici collections.

After crossing the Ombrone River, turn left towards Signa and you will reach Montelupo Fiorentino, a town famous for its artistic ceramics, which have a centuries-old tradition in this area. The Museo della Ceramica, which houses an extraordinary collection of ceramic works ranging from the late 13th to the 18th century; the Museo Archeologico, one of the most important of its kind in Italy; and the Villa medicea dell’Ambrogiana, built at the behest of Ferdinando I dei Medici at the end of the 16th century, are well worth a visit. About 20 kilometres from Montelupo is Castelfiorentino, a charming town nestled in the rolling hills of Valdelsa. Founded by the Romans, it retains the old part, on the hills, separate from the modern town. The BeGo Museum, dedicated to the well-known Florentine painter Benozzo Gozzoli; the Church of San Francesco, a rare example of Gothic architecture in Valdelsa; and the Sanctuary of Santa Verdiana, with a small museum displaying valuable works by Taddeo Gaddi and Cimabue, are worth a visit.

From Castelfiorentino we then head to Certaldo, a picturesque medieval village that has remained virtually intact to this day. It is famous for being the birthplace of the famous poet and writer Boccaccio, of whom it preserves: the house where he is presumed to have been born and lived until his death, now the site of the Ente Nazionale Giovanni Boccaccio, the museum and library dedicated to him; and his tomb, inside the Church of Saints Jacopo and Filippo. Also worth seeing: the massive Palazzo Pretorio, with various frescoed rooms and a picturesque courtyard in Renaissance style; and the deconsecrated Church of Saints Thomas and Prospero, most likely dating back to the 13th century, which has an important cycle of frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli. After visiting Certaldo, we descend the Elsa valley and, near the Arno river, climb up to San Miniato, from where, if the visibility is good, the panorama sweeps from the sea to the Apuan Alps. The splendid village, with its medieval layout, is dominated by the tower of the Rocca di Federico I and is world famous for its prized white truffle. The town is rich in religious buildings and palaces, including: the Duomo, dating back to the 12th century; and the Church of San Domenico, perhaps the most interesting from an artistic point of view.

Returning to the valley, we continue towards Empoli, a small and welcoming town built in the early Middle Ages around the Collegiate Church of Sant’Andrea, to which is attached a fine museum with works by masters such as Filippo Lippi, Masolino da Panicale and Pontormo. Other attractions include the Church of Santo Stefano degli Agostiniani, of immense historical and artistic value; the Palazzo Ghibellino, one of the city’s most important historical buildings; and the Glass Museum, which documents the history of Empoli’s glassmaking activity. 10 km away is Vinci, a pretty village known the world over for the great Leonardo, who gained his first inspiration for his studies here. Stop to visit: the Museo Leonardiano, housed in the Palazzina Uzielli and the Conti Guidi Castle, which holds the oldest collection of models of the Renaissance genius; and Leonardo’s birthplace in the hamlet of Anchiano. Finally, the last stop on the itinerary is Artimino, where there is another magnificent Medici villa, La Ferdinanda, built to a design by the Medici architect Bernardo Buontalenti. Inside you can admire valuable frescoes by Domenico Cresti and Bernardino Poccetti. From Artimino we return to Montecatini, passing again through Poggio a Caiano.