5 things to see in Portoferraio

Portoferraio is the main port and capital of Elba. The town, arranged amphitheatrically against the backdrop of the bay of the same name, is among the island’s oldest centres. Called Fabricia by the Romans and later Ferraia (being a port for the export of iron), it took on its current appearance at the time of Cosimo I de’ Medici (16th century), who, after renaming it Cosmopoli, had its characteristic fortifications erected. Part of Portoferraio’s fame is due to Napoleon Bonaparte, who lived here in exile for 10 months (from 4 May 1814 to 26 February 1815). As for things to see, there is no shortage of them. We have selected 5 not to be missed during a holiday on the Island of Elba!

The Medicean Fortresses

Among the things to see in Portoferraio, we cannot fail to mention the Fortezze Medicee, the majestic architectural complex built by Cosimo I de’ Medici to defend against attacks by enemies and ruthless pirates. Thanks to these fortifications, Portoferraio was the only city able to resist the attacks of the feared Turkish pirate Dragut. The complex extends from the Land Gate of the 16th-century Cosmopolis to Fort Falcone. The construction project was initially led by architects Bellucci and Camerini, who were later joined by Bernardo Buontalenti. Today, the complex can be visited along a route of about 500 metres that allows visitors to enjoy enchanting views of the sea.

The Roman Villas

Portoferraio is home to two famous Roman domus brought to light during the 20th century. The first, the Villa Romana delle Grotte, is one of the most important archaeological testimonies of Roman times in the Tuscan Archipelago. On the site, some walls in opus reticulatum and parts of mosaic can be admired, and the swimming pool with its water-heating structures is clearly visible. Opposite the Villa Romana delle Grotte are the remains of the second, the Villa Romana della Linguella. Although much of the stratification was disrupted in the 16th century, when Cosimo I de’ Medici had a fortress built in the area, some traces of the original layout still remain.

The Cathedral of Portoferraio

Tra le architetture religiose, merita senza dubbio una visita la Cattedrale di Portoferraio, dedicata alla Natività della Beata Vergine Maria. Situata nel centro storico della città, fu costruita nel XVI secolo ma il suo aspetto attuale è dovuto alla riorganizzazione avvenuta all’inizio del XIX secolo, quando le due cappelle laterali, aggiunte nel 1623, furono trasformate in navate. Il suo interno ospita diverse opere di grande valore artistico, molte delle quali sono dipinti. Tra queste: una preziosa Visitazione attribuita a Domenico Cresti, detto il Passignano, e un Compianto sul Cristo morto di Agnolo di Cosimo Tori, detto il Bronzino.

The National Museum of Napoleonic Residences

The National Museum of Napoleonic Residences consists of the two dwellings in which Napoleon lived during his exile on Elba. The first, the Palazzina dei Mulini, was chosen by the Emperor as his main residence for public life and representation. It houses memorabilia, furnishings and furniture dating back to Napoleonic times and part of the interesting library he had brought with him. The second, Villa San Martino, was Napoleon’s summer residence. It was later acquired by the Russian prince Anatolius Demidoff (Bonaparte’s heir by marriage), who had the imposing Neoclassical Gallery, which was named after him, built. Nineteenth-century prints and furnishings of the period can be admired here, but the highlight is the sculpture of Galatea by Antonio Canova.

The Volterraio Fortress

The Volterraio Fortress is one of the most fascinating sites not only of Portoferraio but of the entire island. And it is also easy to understand why this is one of the few Elban fortresses ever to have been conquered. Set in the rock 395 metres above sea level, it took on a definite physiognomy at the end of the 13th century, when the Maritime Republic of Pisa decided to redevelop it. Although reduced to the state of ruins, one can still see part of its original appearance. An impregnable fortress yesterday, today it is a must-see destination for trekking lovers and for those who want to admire a magnificent panorama. Sunset is one of the most suggestive moments to visit it.