What to eat in Versilia

Sandwiched between the sea and the Apuan Alps mountain range, Versilia is a land rich in gastronomic tradition, even before being a renowned tourist area. Versilia cuisine reflects the variety of its territory and skilfully mixes the flavours of the sea with those of the hinterland.

What to eat in Versilia? Here is a selection of local specialities that, in our opinion, you cannot miss!

Gombitelli’s cured meats

Gombitelli is a small hamlet in the municipality of Camaiore, with just over a hundred inhabitants, famous for the production of cured meats and sausages, made according to ancient recipes and processing techniques that are still absolutely artisanal today and using only high quality raw materials. A tradition that is the synthesis of many influences: the basic charcuterie school is that of Lucca, but with influences from Alta Versilia and nearby Garfagnana. Among the typical products you must try are biroldo, mortadella nostrale, sausage and pink lard, which has nothing to envy from the more famous Colonnata lard.

Versilian tordelli

Among the first courses, you must try the tordelli versiliesi, strictly with a d and not a t. This is a truly unique dish, as beautiful to look at as it is tasty to eat. They are nothing more than large ravioli, usually crescent-shaped, filled with meat and vegetables. They lend themselves well to various seasonings but find the perfect combination in meat sauce. They are never missing from the table, especially on holidays in Seravezza, Camaiore, Pietrasanta, Viareggio, Forte dei Marmi and Massarosa. And like any self-respecting traditional recipe, each family has its own version.

Risotto with cuttlefish and chard

Another delicious “mixed” preparation that mixes the flavors of the sea with those of the land is risotto with cuttlefish and chard, originating from Versilia but also widespread in other coastal areas of Tuscany. A dish that is now a real institution in Viareggio, where it is a classic to eat it during the local festivals during the Carnival period. This is a simple recipe to prepare but rich in flavor. Cuttlefish pairs perfectly with chard.

Spaghetti trabaccolara

Among the first courses, we also recommend spaghetti trabaccolara, a typical recipe in Versilia that has, however, origins in the Marche region. It is a particularly tasty and flavourful dish based on tomato and poor fish. It takes its name from the ‘trabaccolo’, a boat once used to catch deep-sea fish by the fishermen of San Benedetto del Tronto, many of whom moved to Viareggio between the 1920s and 1930s, bringing this dish with them. The recipe was born in the early post-war period, when discarded fish that would not end up at the market was cooked in boats. After years of oblivion, the dish has been back in fashion since the late 1990s.

Viareggio-style cacciucco

Another speciality to try is cacciucco alla viareggina. The term comes from the Turkish ‘kuciuck’, which means ‘minute’, ‘small thing’. And indeed, this delicious dish is composed of a variety of fish reduced to small pieces. It is said that the recipe was created in ancient times by fishermen in order not to throw away unsold fish. Lesser-known and less expensive fish, mostly sandy, caught in the Versilia sea such as aluzzi, sugherelli, rondinini, pesce serra, torpedini and pesce tremola are used. Compared to Livorno cacciucco, apart from the fish (rock fish in Livorno, sand fish in Viareggio), cacciucco alla viareggina is lighter, no sautéing, no garlic and the fish is all boned.

The scarpaccia

The scarpaccia is a typical dish from the province of Lucca. There are two versions: a sweet and soft one typical of Viareggio; and a salty and crunchy one that is enjoyed in Camaiore. In both cases the real protagonist is the courgette, to which simple ingredients such as flour, eggs, onion and oil are added. It is also called ‘torta dell’orto’ because it is a peasant recipe. As for the name, according to cooking expert Giovanni Righi Parenti it derives ‘from the fact that, once cooked, it has the thickness of an old shoe sole: a scarpaccia’. It can be eaten either hot or warm.

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