Easter events and traditions in Tuscany

The Easter period in Tuscany, as in the rest of Italy, is in the sign of ancient popular rites and historical religious traditions. Among the countless events that enliven Tuscan villages and towns during these festive days, we propose seven not-to-be-missed ones.

The Explosion of the Chariot in Florence

The Explosion of the Chariot is one of Florence’s best-loved and oldest traditions. It is repeated every Easter Sunday. The protagonist of the spectacle is the chariot – called ‘brindellone’ by the Florentines – which, escorted by 150 costumed figures, is pulled by two pairs of white flowered oxen from Porta al Prato to Piazza del Duomo, where it is placed in the space between the Baptistery and the Cathedral. During the Mass, at the singing of the Gloria in Excelsis Deo, the Archbishop lights a rocket in the shape of a dove (the colombina) from the altar of the Duomo, which, by means of a rope mechanism, travels down the central nave of the church and reaches the float outside, setting off spectacular fireworks. It is a good omen that the colombina, after setting the cart on fire, makes the return journey to the high altar without a hitch. The origins of this tradition date back to the First Crusade, although it did not take on its current characteristics until the 17th century.

The Explosion of the Chariot in Rufina

A tradition similar to the one in Florence is held in Rufina, a town located just over 25 kilometres from the lily city. It takes place in Piazza Umberto I, in front of the Church of San Martino, at the stroke of midnight on Holy Saturday. A rocket disguised as a colombina runs on a cable from the top of the church to the float (positioned in the square) igniting a fuse, which in turn triggers the lights and fireworks contained in the float. The origins of this traditional event date back to 1937, when some citizens of Rufina invented the bursting of a rudimentary contraption called a Berta (named after a tool used by blacksmiths to crush incandescent metal bars). After being interrupted for the Second World War, the Berta officially became the cart burst again, because the supporting structure consisted of a casing, containing the firecrackers, placed on an ox cart.

The Procession of the Crosses in Castiglione di Garfagnana

In the picturesque village of Castiglione di Garfagnana, the Procession of the Crosses, a fascinating re-enactment of the Passion of Jesus, takes place after the In Coena Domini Mass on Holy Thursday. The faithful come out of the Church of San Michele and follow through the cobbled streets of the village a man playing Christ with chains on his feet, his face covered and a large cross on his shoulders. What makes this performance unique is that no one (except the prior of the local confraternity) knows the identity of the man impersonating Christ. So that he can remain anonymous, he is locked up in a cupboard in the sacristy before and after the procession. He will only come out late at night, when the whole town is deserted. No one has ever been able to establish historically when this ancient event dates back to.

The Dark Procession of Radicofani

The Dark Procession of Radicofani (in Val d’Orcia) is one of the oldest and most evocative in the entire region. The celebration begins on Holy Thursday, with a Mass commemorating the Last Supper and the opening of Christ’s tomb, followed the next day by the penitence procession commemorating Jesus’ death. It starts at St Peter’s Church and reaches its climax with the arrival at St Agatha’s Church, where the adoration of Calvary takes place around the magnificent altar by Andrea Della Robbia. The procession is attended by the 12 brothers of the congregation of Saint Agatha (in red cloaks) and the 12 members of the Brotherhood of Mercy (in white cloaks), who walk the streets of the town in prayer carrying a large cross.

The Scalzi Procession in Pienza

Still in the Val d’Orcia, the Processione degli Scalzi in Pienza is also very evocative. This is a centuries-old tradition that takes place through the streets of the historic centre on the evening of Good Friday, stopping at all the most significant points in the village. It begins and ends in front of the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, an architectural jewel that preserves admirable altarpieces by 15th-century Sienese painters. The procession is opened by 12 barefoot and hooded people holding a torch and carrying the statue of the dead Christ. They are followed by a historical procession marching to the sound of the band.

The Procession of the Baskets in Santa Maria a Monte

On Easter Monday in Santa Maria a Monte, one of the most interesting examples of a medieval Tuscan village, the Procession of the Baskets is scheduled, commemorating the transfer of the body of the Blessed Diana Giuntini (patron saint of the village). Each district offers the Blessed a basket of flowers, traditionally carried on the head by a lady accompanied by a horseman. The baskets of flowers refer to the saint’s miracle: the transformation of bread, which Diana wore in her apron, into roses and flowers. The procession starts near the ancient Church of San Dalmazio, at the foot of the hill, and reaches the Collegiate Church of San Giovanni Apostolo ed Evangelista.

The Sportella Festival in Rio nell’Elba

In Rio nell’Elba, a small village on the north-eastern side of the Island of Elba, the Festa della Sportella has been celebrated on Easter Monday for centuries. It is held at the Hermitage of Santa Caterina and commemorates a miraculous event from which the sacred place is said to have originated. It is said that a boy from Rieti, a certain Domenico Schezzini, witnessed the miraculous apparition of Saint Catherine, who ordered him to tell his fellow villagers to celebrate her every Easter Monday. The sportella is a leavened cake in the shape of a doughnut with the ends overlapping. This cake was once exchanged during the Easter period between engaged couples as a fertility omen for the new season. Today, this custom has disappeared but it has remained alive in the memory and culture of the locals, who meet every year near the hermitage to celebrate St Catherine.

Featured photo © Discover Tuscany | Photo gallery Explosion of the Chariot in Rufina © Radio Mugello – Procession of the Crosses in Castiglione di Garfagnana © La Nazione – Procession of the Baskets in Santa Maria a Monte © Terre di Pisa