10 things to see in Garfagnana

Located in northern Tuscany, on the border between Lunigiana and the territories of Matilde di Canossa, Garfagnana is an ancient and fascinating land rich in picturesque medieval villages, imposing fortresses, original buildings, ancient parish churches, but also spectacular caves and nature reserves. In short, there is no shortage of things to see. We have selected 10 that you cannot miss for any reason in the world!

ISOLA SANTA

One of the most evocative places in the Garfagnana is undoubtedly Isola Santa (a hamlet in the municipality of Careggine), a small village that seems straight out of a storybook. As testified by archaeological excavations, its roots go back to prehistoric times, but it is to the medieval period that its foundations are traced, when there was a hospitale in the village that welcomed the numerous wayfarers passing between Versilia and Garfagnana. It rises on the banks of a small artificial lake (navigable by canoe, kayak or other craft) fed by the waters of the Turrite Secca stream. Surrounded by greenery, it consists of a few stone houses with slate roofs that offer visitors images of an ancient tranquillity. In the village, it is possible to visit the Church of San Jacopo, probably founded by Countess Matilda of Canossa and now deconsecrated.

WIND CAVE

The Wind Cave (Grotta del Vento) is one of the most complete tourist caves in Europe. It is located in Fornovolasco (a hamlet of the municipality of Fabbriche di Vergemoli), in the heart of the Apuan Alps. So called because of the strong air currents that flow through it, it is an immense cavity carved into the rock by the millennial erosive activity of air and water that presents an extraordinary variety of aspects of underground karstification. Although it was formed millions of years ago, it was only discovered in 1898 thanks to some young people from Fornovolasco who, intrigued by the current of air coming from inside it, convinced a four-year-old girl to slip into the fissure, which was too narrow for an adult. The visit includes the possibility of taking three different routes in terms of length and duration.

HERMITAGE OF CALOMINI

A few kilometres from the Wind Cave, also in the municipality of Fabbriche di Vergemoli, is the Hermitage of Calomini, nestled in the mountains. Dedicated to Santa Maria ad Martyres, it represents one of the few examples of rock architecture in Garfagnana. According to tradition, it was built on the site where, around the year 1000, a shepherdess inexplicably found an image of the Madonna in her hands. The relic was taken to Gallicano, but the icon disappeared, to be found again in Calomini, where the young girl had found it. The sacred image, still extant and an object of devotion, is venerated under the name Madonna della Penna. Don’t miss a visit to the sacristy, the ancient kitchen and the monks’ quarters, all dug into the rock.

FORTRESS OF THE VERRUCOLE

Absolutely not to be missed is the majestic Verrucole Fortress, one of the most representative monuments of Garfagnana and the system of military fortifications in the surrounding area. Positioned on a hill overlooking the village of San Romano in Garfagnana, it was built between the 10th and 13th centuries by the Gherardinghi family. Although in its present form it probably dates back to two Este periods: the time of Marquis Leonello (circa 1450) and Alfonso II (circa 1564). It is currently home to an archaeopark, which reconstructs life inside the fortress in the form of a living museum, as it was when it was inhabited in the past. From the 16th-century bastions of the fortress, it is also possible to enjoy a breathtaking view of the Garfagnana valley floor and the landscape of the Apuan Alps.

FORTRESS OF CAMPORGIANO

The Fortress of Camporgiano, also known as Rocca degli Estensi, was erected around the 15th century by the powerful and noble family of Ferrara and is located on a rocky relief opposite the Fortezza delle Verrucole. Although it does not retain much of its original structure, it is still worth a visit. Today, besides being one of the symbolic monuments of the Garfagnana, it houses (in the main tower) the Civic Collection of Renaissance Ceramics. The precious ceramics, which cover a span of almost three centuries, come for the most part from the butto wells of the fortification emptied during restoration work carried out in the 1970s. A small part of the collection was instead recovered in Nicciano.

LAKE OF VAGLI

Lake Vagli (in the municipality of Vagli Sotto) is the largest artificial basin in Tuscany. Its waters conceal the ruins of Fabbriche di Careggine, a small village that had existed since the 13th century and was swallowed up in 1953, when a raising of the Vagli dam was completed. The ghost town, whose traces of what it once was are still preserved, only reappears when the reservoir is emptied for maintenance work. The fulcrum of tourist activities around the lake is the locality of il Bivio, where there are: picnic areas; the start of the route to the Ponte Sospeso (Suspended Bridge), which offers a marvellous and complete view of the surrounding panorama; and the shuttle for the Volo dell’Angelo (Angel’s Flight), a zipline that allows you to fly over the surface of the lake for more than a kilometre at a height of about 350 metres.

MAGDALENA BRIDGE

Among the things to see in Garfagnana, we cannot fail to mention the ancient and mysterious Ponte della Maddalena (located near Borgo a Mozzano), a construction with asymmetrical arches that dates back, in its current appearance, to the 14th century. Its singular profile, which still impresses those who admire it, has inspired numerous artists. It is also known as the Devil’s Bridge because of an ancient legend, according to which the master builder, unable to finish the bridge on time, asked the devil for help, promising him in exchange the soul of the first living being to cross it. Once the bridge was finished, however, the devil was mocked by the cunning of the inhabitants, who made a dog cross it.

ORRIDO OF BOTRI

Situated on the slopes of the Rondinaio and Tre Potenze mountains, the Orrido of Botri is a spectacular limestone gorge with steep walls (up to 200 metres high) carved deep into the rock by the cold waters of the Mariana and Ribellino streams and only a few fathoms apart in places. At first sight it seems impassable, hostile, a geological rift barring human access, yet it was frequented even in antiquity. The Supreme Poet Dante Alighieri visited the area and, according to some interpretations, was inspired by the Orrido di Botri to shape his hellish landscapes. From June to September, when the water flow rate is lower and the temperature milder, it is possible to ascend the final stretch, from Ponte a Gaio (the only access to the gorge, where the Carabinieri Forestry Service reception centre and ticket office are located) to the Salto dei Becchi.

BARGA

Another destination not to be missed is Barga, the village with Pascolian echoes and narrow, steep streets. Perched atop a hill, it is a small medieval jewel with the breathtaking backdrop of the Apuan Alps. It combines the variety of colours, the mildness of the climate, the presence of splendid artistic testimonies and the lively hospitality of its people. The main monument is the Cathedral of San Cristoforo. Built on several occasions from the 11th to the 16th century in clear Alberese blocks, it houses inside works of art of considerable interest, including a valuable ambo of the Comacina school. Other sights to see include: the Conservatorio di Santa Elisabetta, which houses a beautiful altarpiece by the Della Robbia school; the Casa Museo Giovanni Pascoli, inhabited by the poet from 1895 until his death; and the Museo Civico del Territorio Antonio Mordini, which traces the history of the territory.

CASTIGLIONE DI GARFAGNANA

Another charming village is Castiglione di Garfagnana. Situated on the top of a hill, it still partly retains its original urban layout. Walking through its narrow streets, you will feel as if you are going back in time. In the highest part of the town stands the Rocca, a majestic structure with three towers, the largest of which is the keep, from which you can admire a magnificent view of the valley below. In addition to the fortress, the following are noteworthy: the Church of San Michele, with its late-Gothic façade made of grey stone, red marble and white marble; and the Church of San Pietro, built close to the fortress above it. The village is also famous for the numerous festivals and historical pageants it hosts.