Itinerary among villages and parish churches in the hills of Lucca

What to see on the hills of Lucca? Here we propose a fascinating itinerary that guides you to discover the villages and parish churches of this extremely evocative area which manages to surprise with its tranquility, history, culture and food and wine excellence.

The first stop on the itinerary is Villa Basilica, a small and charming village that rises on the slopes of the Pizzorne plateau. Positioned halfway between Lucca and Pistoia, it preserves numerous remains of its medieval past. A large number of factories dedicated to the production of paper were concentrated here and have recently been closed or transferred to the Lucca plain. In the valley today only about ten paper mills remain in operation and carry on the tradition. Among the most prominent monuments are: the ruins of the fortress, built between the 12th and 13th centuries; the Parish Church of Santa Maria Assunta, which houses various works of art, including a 13th century Crucifix attributed to Berlinghiero Berlinghieri; and the Palazzo Pievanale, inside which it is possible to admire a collection of Flemish paintings.

A few kilometers from Villa Basilica, and precisely in the municipality of Capannori, is the Parish Church of San Gennaro, which constitutes one of the most important examples of Romanesque art in the Lucca area. The current building was rebuilt in the 12th century while the bell tower dates back to the first half of the 19th century. Inside are worthy of note: the panel depicting the Madonna and Child by Vincenzo Frediani and Raniero by Leonardo; the painting of the Madonna of San Tofanelli; and the terracotta statue depicting the Archangel Gabriel, attributed to Leonardo da Vinci by Professor Carlo Petretti, considered the world’s leading expert on the art and life of the revolutionary Renaissance genius.

The next stop is the picturesque village of Montecarlo, known for the vast vineyards that characterize the landscape and the production of fine DOP wines: Montecarlo Bianco and Rosso di Montecarlo. The town looks like a small historic center, still surrounded by the splendid city walls, perched around the Cerruglio Fortress. This imposing construction is made up of different nuclei which at different times were brought together in their current state. Among other things to see we find: the Collegiate Church of Sant’Andrea, which houses a detached fresco from the Sienese school; the Teatro dei Resistenzati, a small jewel of eighteenth-century architecture, which was also frequented by maestro Giacomo Puccini; and the Romanesque Parish Church of San Piero in Campo, with a Lucca-style façade.

The itinerary then continues with a visit to the Villa Reale of Marlia, famous for having been the residence of Elisa Baciocchi, the most enterprising and ambitious of Napoleon’s sisters. The enchanting monumental complex includes the sumptuous Villa Reale, the refined Palazzina dell’Orologio, the Villa del Vescovo and a beautiful park, where the following stand out: the Avenue of Camellias, with over forty varieties of camellia japonica; and the Teatro di Verzura, which represents an exceptional example of natural architecture. Near the villa (about 15 minutes on foot) is the Parish Church of San Pancrazio, documented since the 10th century. The church, built in stone from the nearby Matraia quarries, presents the most significant characteristics of the Lucca Romanesque style. On the right of the building is the bell tower, of early medieval design. This is the last stage of the itinerary between villages and parish churches on the Lucca hills.