Lucca from square to square

Lucca is one of the most beautiful and refined cities in Tuscany. Protected by grandiose bastions and ancient walls, it has preserved almost intact the original appearance of its historic centre. The best way to visit it is by walking through its most famous squares. So follow us on this itinerary from piazza to piazza to discover its exceptional historical and architectural heritage.

The first stop on the itinerary is Piazza San Frediano. Surrounded by boutiques, small shops and bars, it is home to the Basilica of San Frediano, one of the oldest places of worship in Lucca as well as one of the most evocative Romanesque churches in all of Tuscany. According to tradition, it was founded by San Frediano himself in the 6th century although the construction of the current basilica began in the 12th century. It has a façade embellished with a large Byzantine style mosaic while inside the following are noteworthy: the beautiful 12th century lustral fountain, decorated in relief; the mosaic floor of the presbytery; and the Trenta chapel, in the left nave, with statues by Jacopo della Quercia.

In the immediate vicinity of Piazza San Frediano stands the beautiful Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, also known as Piazza del Mercato, one of the symbols of the city. An area of restaurants, taverns, bars and trattorias, it is one of the most popular meeting places for the people of Lucca. The name and the very particular elliptical shape testify to its origins. The current square, singular and unique in its kind, was in fact built to a design by the Lucca architect Lorenzo Nottolini (from 1830) on the remains of the ancient Roman amphitheatre, built in the 1st or 2nd century AD. It is accessed through four doors and in the center there is a cross engraved on a tile which indicates the perfect intersection between the doors.

The next stop is Piazza San Michele, also known as Piazza delle Catene due to the numerous marble columns connected by heavy metal chains. Located at the crossroads between the cardo maximus (from north to south, corresponding to the current via Fillungo, via Cenami and via S. Giovanni) and the decumanus maximus (from west to east, today’s via S. Paolino, via Roma and via S. Croce), in Roman times it represented the Forum, or the place where the main city events took place. Here you can admire: the magnificent Church of San Michele in Foro, full of valuable works of art; the Renaissance Palazzo Pretorio, built in pietra serena; and the statue of Ulisse Cambi dedicated to Francesco Burlamacchi.

Continuing on Via Vittorio Veneto, after a few steps you reach Piazza Napoleone, commonly referred to as Piazza Grande. The current arrangement of the square dates back to the beginning of the 19th century, during the Napoleonic domination of the Principality of Lucca by Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi. On the west side, the majestic Palazzo Ducale stands out, having been the political and administrative center of the city for eight centuries. The most sumptuous room is the Hall of the Guards, with frescoes dedicated to the emperor Trajan created by Luigi Ademollo. In the courtyard of the Swiss, on the ground floor of Palazzo Ducale, there is the Museum of the Risorgimento, which illustrates Italian history in the period from 1821 to the First World War.

Finally, the last stop on the itinerary is Piazza San Martino, located just 300 meters from Piazza Napoleone. The Duomo, dedicated to San Martino, overlooks it. It was founded in the 6th century by San Frediano but its current appearance is the result of various renovations carried out over time. Inside there are real masterpieces, among which the following stand out: the ancient wooden crucifix of the Holy Face, which according to legend was sculpted by Nicodemus; the funeral monument of Ilaria del Carretto; the Sacred Conversation by Ghirlandaio; and Tintoretto’s Last Supper. Next to the Cathedral, on the left side, is the Cathedral Museum, where the treasures of religious art are preserved.