5 curiosities about Florence
5 min · 30 May 2023
Considered one of the most beautiful cities in Italy and beyond, Florence is famous for its extraordinary artistic and architectural heritage. Tourists come from all over the world to admire its masterpieces of art, the polychrome marble of its churches and the numerous architectures that recall its glorious past. The historical centre, a Unesco World Heritage Site, is a kind of open-air museum: just stroll through its alleys and you will pass through centuries of history.
Everyone knows its masterpieces and attractions but there are some curiosities that only a few know about. Discover them with us.
The Berta
On the side of the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore that faces Via de’ Cerretani, a sculpture that depicts the petrified head of a woman emerges from the wall. It is Berta, as she is called by the Florentines. There are various stories and legends revolving around this work. It is said to be the face of a fruit seller to whom the inhabitants of the neighbourhood wanted to dedicate an acknowledgement for having made a donation to the church. Another legend has it that it is the head of a priest who in 1327 railed against a man condemned to the stake for astrology, who cursed him by petrifying his head in that position. More likely, it is a legacy from the late Roman period.
The bull’s head on the cathedral
On the side of the Duomo, at the height of Via Ricasoli, one can see a marble gargoyle depicting a large ox head, complete with horns. There are two stories about this unusual sculpture. The first is that it was placed there by the builders as a tribute to the various draught animals used to transport the materials needed to build the church. The second tells of a betrayal and the lover’s original revenge. Apparently, at the time of the Duomo’s construction, a tailor lived in a house in Via Ricasoli who was jealous of his wife, who was having an affair with a master builder. Upon discovering the betrayal, the tailor denounced them to the Ecclesiastical Court and so the master builder decided to place the head of a bull in the direction of the tailor’s house to remind him every day of his condition as a betrayed husband.
Michelangelo’s graffito
On the façade of Palazzo Vecchio, to the right of the entrance door, one can observe a curious graffito depicting the face of a man, which the Florentines are wont to call ‘Importuno’. Legend has it that it is an extemporary work by Michelangelo Buonarroti. Apparently, the artist was often stopped by a gentleman who pestered him with idle chatter. One day, Michelangelo, bored and plagued by his incessant questions, started chiselling this man’s profile behind his back while pretending to listen to him. According to another version, Michelangelo was so impressed by a man condemned to public pillory that he wanted to immortalise him on the facade of the building.
The devil by Giambologna
On the wall of Palazzo Vecchietti, at the corner of Via de’ Vecchietti and Via degli Strozzi, is a copy of a grotesque sculpture depicting a flag-bearing devil. The original, made by Giambologna, is on display at the Bardini Museum. The work was commissioned from the Flemish sculptor in the second half of the 16th century by the then owner of the palace. According to legend, the demon recalls an evil apparition that took place in 1243, when, during a sermon by Saint Peter Martyr, a bolted black horse appeared that popular superstition identified with the devil. The saint, however, with a sacred gesture managed to chase away the demonic animal, which disappeared in a cloud of sulphur.
The window always open
In Via dei Servi, on the corner with Piazza Santissima Annunziata, is Palazzo Budini Gatta, formerly Palazzo Grifoni, built in the 16th century initially to a design by Giuliano di Baccio d’Agnolo and continued after his death by Bartolomeo Ammannati. On the right side of the building, a window is always open. Why? Legend has it that a young woman spent her whole life embroidering in front of that window waiting in vain for her beloved to return from the war. When the woman died, they tried to close the window but strange phenomena occurred. For this reason, the window has never been closed since.


