Traditional Tuscan Carnival sweets

Carnival is not only masks, parades and floats, but also joy for the palate. In fact, at this particular time of year, as tradition dictates, delicious typical desserts are prepared. And in Tuscany there are so many that you are spoiled for choice.

What are the traditional Tuscan Carnival desserts? Here are six delicacies you will find hard to resist.

The cenci

When people talk about carnival in Tuscany, they immediately think of cenci, the quintessential carnival dessert. These are sheets of fried dough, with a crisp and crumbly texture, which are served with a dusting of powdered sugar. From north to south of the boot they are called in many different ways (bugie, chiacchiere, frappe, galani, intrigoni, etc.) but all agree on their goodness. The name cenci derives from the particular shape, which resembles pieces of cloth. According to historians, its origins date back to the time when the ancient Romans celebrated Saturnalia. We recommend enjoying them together with a glass of vinsanto.

The Florentine-style schiacciata

The queen of carnival sweets in Tuscany is undoubtedly schiacciata alla fiorentina, a very soft and delicate cake already mentioned in 1800 by the gastronome Pellegrino Artusi as “stiacciata unta.” It can be recognized at first glance because tradition has it decorated with a Florentine lily. It is prepared only during the carnival period and there is no bakery or pastry shop that does not offer its version. In Florence, a tasting contest is even organized in which the big names of the city’s pastry industry take part. In recent years, versions filled with whipped cream, custard or gianduia have also appeared.

The berlingozzo

Another tasty carnival specialty in Tuscany is berlingozzo, a typical sweet from the Pistoia area, especially common in the municipality of Lamporecchio. Fallen into disuse, but definitely traditional, it is a kind of low doughnut with an anise flavor. It has very ancient origins: the original recipe is said to date as far back as the 1400s. The name seems to derive from berlingaccio, a term for Maundy Thursday and an ancient carnival mask. In fact, it is traditionally prepared on Maundy Thursday. Perfect for breakfast or a snack, it is also suitable for those allergic to lactose, given the absence of milk and its derivatives in the dough.

Rice fritters

Among the many recipes typical of this period are rice fritters. Tuscan tradition has it that they are prepared during carnival and on March 19, on the occasion of St. Joseph, Father’s Day. In fact, they are also known as frittelle di San Giuseppe. There is often contention over the original recipe: with raisins, without, with rice of one kind rather than another. But the base is always rice cooked in milk together with citrus peels. The recipe for fritters has very ancient origins: written evidence comes to us from Maestro Martino da Como’s 15th-century “Libro de arte coquinaria.”

The frati

Also very good are frati, mouth-watering fried doughnuts covered in sugar similar in dough to classic bomboloni. They are enjoyed all year round but especially during the carnival period. They are very popular in Lucca and Livorno. Friars can be hollow or filled with custard. They should be cooked and eaten at the moment, still warm: they are never prepared and left on the counter, not even for a minute. They are so called because their shape with a hole is reminiscent of the cleric that friars once used to wear on their heads.

The zuccherini

And last but not least, zuccherini, delicious cookie-like doughnuts to which liqueur and anise seeds are added. They are typical of Fucecchio, a town on the right bank of the Arno River, halfway between Florence, Pisa and Lucca. Their origin dates back to the 19th century, when some peasant families began making these delicious treats that were then stuffed into sticks and hung in the pantry, where they were kept until Lent. The dough, very similar to that of a dry cookie, makes them keep for a long time.

Photo gallery | Florentine-style schiacciata © FirenzeToday | rice fritters © Cookist | zuccherini © Corriere della Sera