The Via Francigena in Tuscany

The Via Francigena is an ancient religious pilgrimage route that led from northern Europe to the holy cities of Christianity: Rome and Jerusalem. In the Middle Ages, the difficulty of the route represented for pilgrims a sort of act of penance to be undertaken to redeem themselves with God, while today, although there are still believers who walk it driven by religious motivations, it is an opportunity for a renewed relationship with nature and the land.

This extraordinary itinerary also crosses Tuscany: a good 380 kilometres to be covered on foot, by bike or on horseback to discover the most classic Tuscany, the one printed on postcards. It is a unique and unforgettable experience that always gives new emotions. The long and varied Tuscan stretch can be covered one stage at a time or just a few pieces chosen according to the most interesting destinations.

Let’s discover together the stages of the Via Francigena in Tuscany!

Stage 22: from the Cisa Pass to Pontremoli

In Tuscany the Via Francigena starts from the Cisa Pass, the pass that separates the Ligurian Apennines from the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. The stage, 19.4 km long which can be covered on foot in around 5 hours, passes through the still well-preserved and charming villages of Groppodalosio, Casalina and Topelecca, and then ends in the charming town of Pontremoli. Not to be missed along the route: the small church dedicated to Nostra Signora della Guardia, near the Cisa Pass; the remains of the Xenodochio of San Benedetto di Montelungo, the ancient hospital dating back to the mid-8th century; and the Church of San Pietro in Pontremoli, in which a sandstone stone slab depicting a labyrinth is preserved, dating back to between the 11th and 12th centuries.

Stage 23: from Pontremoli to Aulla

The second stage is more demanding: around 33 km which can be covered on average on foot in 8 hours. Along the route, which crosses dirt roads and paths for long stretches in the woods, you come across delightful medieval villages such as Ponticello, Filattiera, Filetto, Villafranca and Virgoletta. The following are undoubtedly worth a visit: the elegant Parish Church of Santo Stefano in Sorano a Filattiera, one of the most important Romanesque parish churches in the province of Massa Carrara; the imposing Malaspina Castle of Terrarossa, almost entirely in exposed stone, which retains the characteristics of its time; and the ancient Abbey of San Caprasio in the historic center of Aulla.

Stage 24: from Aulla to Sarzana

The third stage in Tuscany, approximately 17 km long, is full of charm and suggestion. It can be divided into two parts: the first, demanding, takes place largely on a path and offers the first view of the sea; the second is flat. It winds through the villages, fortresses and castles on the Lunigiana hills. Among the things to see are: the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Neve in Podenzana, built at the end of the seventeenth century; the ruins of the Brina Castle in Torraccio, a typical example of a fortified high-altitude settlement; and the town of Sarzana, which boasts churches and buildings of considerable historical interest.

Stage 25: from Sarzana to Massa

Just over 28 km long which can be covered on foot in around 7 hours, the fourth stage is particularly demanding. You reach the archaeological site of Luni, where you can admire the remains of the ancient Roman colony of Portus Lunae. In this stage you travel along a road between vineyards, which offers wonderful views of the Apuan Alps and the sea. Worth seeing: the Church of San Pietro in Avenza, which preserves a wooden crucifix believed to be miraculous; the Carrara Cathedral, built in Roman Gothic style in the 9th century; and in Massa the Diocesan Museum set up in the historic “cadet building” and the Cathedral dedicated to Saints Peter and Francis.

Stage 26: from Massa to Camaiore

This stage, approximately 26 kilometers long, passes through Montignoso, the beautiful Pietrasanta and ends in the historic center of Camaiore. Along the route there are many things not to be missed, among which the following stand out: the Aghinolfi Castle, from the early Middle Ages but the result of various building interventions over the centuries, which overlooks Montignoso; the Cathedral of San Martino in Pietrasanta, with its characteristic red brick bell tower, which remained unfinished; the ancient Parish Church of S. Giovanni in Valdicastello, one of the most significant examples of Romanesque architecture in Lucca; and the Badia di San Pietro a Camaiore, founded in the 7th century by Benedictine monks.

Stage 27: from Camaiore to Lucca

The sixth stage, approximately 25 km long, climbs towards Montemagno and reaches Valpromaro, from which a path in the woods leads to Piazzano. From here you then descend into the Contesola torrent valley and quickly reach Lucca. Not to be missed: the Church of San Michele in Montemagno, remembered in a document from 1129 with an adjoining hospital for pilgrims; the Cathedral of Lucca, dedicated to San Martino, where you can admire the famous wooden crucifix of the Holy Face, which according to legend was sculpted by Nicodemus; and the National Museum of Villa Guinigi, where the relief depicting San Jacopo, dating back to the 12th century and coming from the Altopascio Hospital, is preserved.

Stage 28: from Lucca to Altopascio

The seventh stage connects Lucca to Altopascio, a place known as the “city of bread” for the renowned traditional production of bread, which is produced without the use of yeast. Just over 18 km long, it has an easy and flat route. Along the way you can admire: the Parish Church of San Lorenzo in Segromigno in Monte, which owes its appearance to the 12th century renovations; the Church of Santa Maria in the small center of Rughi, probably of Lombard origin; the Fortress of Monte Carlo, built in the 12th century; and the Parish Church of San Piero in Campo also in Montecarlo, dating back to the 12th century and still well preserved.

Stage 29: from Altopascio to San Miniato

From Altopascio begins a stage considered quite simple, about 30 km long which can be covered in less than 6 hours. After traveling along a splendid paved stretch of the ancient Via Francigena, the route heads towards Ponte a Cappiano, crosses the interesting historic center of Fucecchio and ends in San Miniato, a splendid ancient village dominated by the tower of the Rocca di Federico I. From see: the Abbey of San Salvatore located in the upper part of Fucecchio, rebuilt after 1106; the Archaeological Museums of Castelfranco di Sotto and Orentano, where the history of the area from Prehistory to the Middle Ages is documented.

Stage 30: from San Miniato to Gambassi Terme

The ninth stage connects San Miniato to Gambassi Terme, a pretty town with ancient origins famous for its spa and for its Acqua Salsa, with its many healing virtues. The particularly challenging route is approximately 24 kilometers long. After crossing a stretch of extraordinary beauty along the hilly ridges of the Val d’Elsa, which offers breathtaking panoramic views in every direction, you come across two Submansiones: the monumental Pieve dei Santi Pietro e Paolo in Coiano, a typical example of Pisan-Volterra Romanesque from the 12th century; and the Parish Church of Santa Maria Assunta in Chianni, a fine example of a Romanesque parish church with the influence of the Romanesque-Pisan style.

Stage 31: from Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano

The tenth stage, approximately 13 km long which can be covered in just over 3 hours, is particularly interesting for the beauty of the ridges of the Val d’Elsa, dotted with castles and abbeys. Along the route you can visit: the Sanctuary of Santa Maria a Pancole, inside which there is a miraculous fresco by Pier Francesco Fiorentino; and the Parish Church of Santa Maria Assunta in Cellole, one of the most important Romanesque parish churches dating back to the 12th century. The stage then ends in the wonderful medieval village of San Gimignano, famous for its architecture and countless towers, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1990.

Stage 32: from San Gimignano to Monteriggioni

The stage, 31 km long which can be covered in approximately 7 hours, connects San Gimignano to Monteriggioni, one of the most admirable examples of a fortified medieval village, which still retains most of the 13th century structures today. This is undoubtedly considered one of the most beautiful stretches of the Via Francigena. Worth seeing: the Abbey of Santa Maria Assunta in Coneo, one of the best preserved churches in the Valdelsa area; the Romanesque Church of San Martino a Strove, dating back to the 10th century; and the complex of the Abbey of Saints Salvatore and Cirino of Abbadia a Isola, of which the beautiful Romanesque church and the monastic rooms remain.

Stage 33: from Monteriggioni to Siena

From Monteriggioni begins a stage of medium difficulty, just over 18 kilometers long, which can be covered in approximately 4.30 hours. Leaving Monteriggioni, we continue along the dirt roads of the Sienese mountain towards the small village of Cerbaia, from which we proceed to the Castelli della Chiocciola and Villa. You then cross the Renai forest before reaching Siena, which is accessed from the ancient Porta Camollia. Once in Siena, we recommend visiting the wonderful Piazza del Campo, the Cathedral dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta and the Museum Complex of Santa Maria della Scala, one of the oldest European hospitals.

Stage 34: from Siena to Ponte d’Arbia

The thirteenth stage, approximately 25 km long which can be completed in less than 7 hours, if covered on a beautiful sunny day can become truly unforgettable thanks to the magnificent views that can be admired from the ridges of the Val d’Arbia. Among the things to see along the way are: the small Romanesque church of Sant’Ilario in Isola d’Arbia, which has always been a destination for pilgrims; the Grancia di Cuna in Monteroni d’Arbia, one of the best examples of a medieval fortified farm; and the Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista in the fortified village of Lucignano d’Arbia, of Romanesque layout and remodeled several times.

Stage 35: from Ponte d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia

This stage, 26.25 km long which can be covered in approximately 6 hours, connects Ponte d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia, one of the municipalities in the enchanting natural and cultural landscape of the Val d’Orcia, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2004. The route also passes through Buonconvento, one of the most beautiful medieval villages in Italy, where you can still breathe a timeless atmosphere. Along the way, the following are certainly worth a visit: the monastic complex of the Abbey of Sant’Antimo in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, one of the most beautiful Romanesque style monuments in Tuscany; and the very ancient Parish Church of San Quirico in Osenna, dating back to the 8th century.

Stage 36: from San Quirico d’Orcia to Radicofani

A particularly demanding stage starts from San Quirico d’Orcia which slowly descends from the Val d’Orcia towards Lazio and ends in Radicofani, a beautiful medieval village perched on a hill halfway between Siena and Viterbo. Having reached the small fortified village of Vignoni, with its enchanting panorama of the Val d’Orcia, you descend to Bagno Vignoni, famous for its thermal waters, used since Roman times. After a detour to the historic center of Castiglione d’Orcia, we continue for a long stretch up and down until the ancient Le Briccole hospital, from which a climb begins that leads to Radicofani.

Stage 37: from Radicofani to Acquapendente

The last stage that crosses the Tuscan territory connects Radicofani to Acquapendente, the small village in Lazio also known as the Jerusalem of Europe because inside the Cathedral it houses the oldest reproduction of the Holy Sepulchre. This is a challenging stage just over 15km long which can be covered in around 3.5 hours. After leaving the village of Radicofani, the route includes an 8 km descent along the ridge to Ponte a Rigo, from which you travel for a few more km before entering Lazio. You cross Proceno and Ponte Gregoriano, before tackling the last climb up to the Basilica of the Holy Sepulcher in Acquapendente.

All you have to do is plan your trip!

For more information visit the official website of the Tuscany Region.